Our day started before breakfast with an early morning skiff ride. Since we had spent most of our time upstream from the main Amazon, this excursion was all about catching the sunrise and reaching the confluence of the Ucayali and Marañón Rivers.
Located east of Iquitos, Peru, the meeting of these two massive rivers marks the official beginning of what is known as the Amazon River. Standing there, you could almost distinguish the two waterways by the direction and movement of the water. It was also our first real appreciation for just how enormous the Amazon is. During flood season, the river carried a steady stream of floating trees and debris downstream, a reminder of the sheer power of the waterway. We spent some time exploring the area before heading back to the Delphin for breakfast, happy to say we had officially been on the Amazon River itself.
During breakfast, Renzo announced that enough kayaks were available for Charlie to have one of her own. Many of the older guests had opted for another skiff ride, leaving a small group of kayakers: Amy and me in one kayak, Renzo in another, Bob and Julia—another younger couple we had enjoyed getting to know—and Charlie in her own boat. We did find a group of great wooly monkeys playing in the canopy on our way to the kayak spot.
After transferring from the skiffs to the kayaks on the river, we set off on a paddle that covered more than six miles. It was a peaceful morning on the water. Charlie got to experience the Amazon up close, and the entire trip turned into a delightful out-and-back adventure through the flooded forest. Just being close to the water, under your own power, in the Amazon was amazing, much like the kayaking we did in Antarctica.
Back onboard before lunch, we were treated to cocktail hour courtesy of Isaac, the ship’s bartender, who gave a Pisco Sour demonstration at the outdoor bar. It was one activity everyone could participate in, and before long the entire group had gathered around. Isaac even tried to convince Charlie to sample one. We brought his recipe home and have made it several times since.
After another excellent lunch, we headed back ashore for a nature walk. This one was less than half a mile along an easy trail, with a very specific goal: finding the giant Victoria Amazonica water lilies.
The destination was worth every step. We arrived at a pond that felt like it was about a quarter the size of Eagle Lake back home, completely covered with lily pads measuring five to six feet across. They looked sturdy enough to walk on. We stood there for quite a while simply taking it all in and snapping photos.
From there, it was back into the skiffs for a short ride to the village of San José de Paranapura, a remote Indigenous community accessible only by water. The village itself was fascinating. We saw roosters, chickens, cats, a few small solar panels, and even a DirecTV dish. Soon we were gathered in a small pavilion to meet the village shaman. Through a translator, he explained a variety of herbal remedies he prepared to treat ailments ranging from headaches to far more serious illnesses. It was clearly an important cultural tradition, passed down through generations, and we were asked not to take photographs during the presentation. Amy worked hard to keep her skepticism from showing too clearly.
For such a remote location, San José felt surprisingly familiar. In some ways it reminded me of isolated communities you might find in the quieter parts of Appalachia—simple, self-sufficient, and largely disconnected from the outside world. If someone truly wanted to live off the grid, this would certainly qualify. Before leaving, we thanked our hosts and purchased a few handmade crafts from the local women. It was understood that supporting the artisans was part of being a respectful visitor, and we were happy to do so.
Then it was back to the Delphin for showers, happy hour, games, and another excellent dinner. By this point, Charlie had earned an invitation to join the ladies’ Upwords and Scrabble games, which she thoroughly enjoyed. After another full day in the Amazon, we headed off to bed.
The day was a perfect example of what made the Amazon portion of the trip so memorable. In a single day we stood at the beginning of the Amazon River, paddled through flooded forests, saw giant water lilies, and spent time in a village that still relies heavily on traditions passed down for generations.
