Our Rocky Mountain hiking adventure began with a work trip. I was sent to Toronto and had to fly straight there, so I joined Sam and Pete in Banff late at night, missing the first day of exploring. The next morning, we grabbed some Starbucks, celebrating the early PSL season, and drove up to Lake Louise. We had planned a big hike outside the area, but our progress was delayed by the heavy traffic trying to access the lake. Once we finally arrived, we set off on our hike. As we ventured further, we found ourselves discussing how quickly bears can run, noting that we were the only ones on the trail and that our path was becoming increasingly muddy. After considering the true threat a charging bear would pose to a group stuck in the mud, we decided to retreat. Instead, we hiked up to the Fairmont, admired the vividly blue Lake Louise, and found another drier, more populated trail. Having previously skied and stayed at Lake Louise, I knew how beautiful the area was, but experiencing it up close—seeing the waterfalls and rock formations—took it to another level. We hiked up to Lake Agnes, one of the ‘Lakes in the Clouds,’ and were lucky enough to secure a spot at the Lake Agnes Teahouse. We shared tea and conversation with another hiking group at 7,000 feet.
After hiking back down to the car, our luck struck again. Moraine Lake, tucked away off the highway to Lake Louise, was operating a one-in, one-out system due to its popularity with visitors. We arrived just as it opened and secured a parking spot. Moraine Lake is just as blue as Lake Louise, with great rock piles to explore. Intrigued by the cold water, we rented a canoe and paddled around most of the lake. Eventually, it started raining—then it rained harder—so we paddled back and stopped for a beer and snack at the charming hotel on the lake before continuing our exploration.
The next day, we covered a lot of ground on our way to the U.S.-Canadian border. While driving out of Banff and crossing the mountains, we stumbled upon the world’s largest canoe paddle in Golden, BC, and naturally, we stopped to check it out. Back in the car, we made it to our first hike at Lower Bugaboo Falls. The drive was probably more challenging than the hike itself, but witnessing the falls and climbing around them was amazing. We spent some time just taking it all in, as we had the place to ourselves. Our next stop, after another sketchy drive with warnings of an active bear nearby, was Brisco Falls. This short, wet hike was also worth it.
After some more driving, we reached Whiteswan Lake Provincial Park. While there was no hike, we indulged in the natural stone hot springs by the Lussier River, which felt like an outdoor hot tub beside a rushing river, despite the crowds. Our Airbnb for the night was in Roosville, a small town with little to offer in terms of food. We crossed into the U.S. without much hassle and grabbed some pizza. However, after driving on dusty roads for a couple of days, the Canadian Border Patrol scrutinized us, even requiring me to step out and wipe off my dusty license plate. They were on the lookout for drug trafficking, but our situation as Americans in a Canadian rental car headed back to a town with little to see did not help. Thankfully, we were allowed to continue on our way.
Day Three was dedicated to Glacier National Park. After waking up in Canada, we began our drive to the park and started on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, surrounded by majestic mountains and glaciers. We found a spot to park and decided to explore a nearby trail. What appeared to be manageable quickly turned into a strenuous hike straight up a dry waterfall with an 800-foot vertical ascent. However, reaching the top rewarded us with a stunning view of Paradise Meadow and our trail along the Garden Wall. During our hike, we encountered some congestion and discovered a bighorn sheep crossing the path. Up close, they appeared massive, and we didn’t want to get on its bad side. Fortunately, it seemed to be just passing through, and with another person nearby attempting to capture its picture on an iPad, we decided to proceed. Along the Highline Trail, we saw a switchback leading up the mountain. As we hiked up a bit, we spotted a black bear scrambling up the slope. Not wanting to be in harm’s way, we paused to watch, knowing how swiftly bears can move uphill. After ensuring it was safe, we continued hiking until we reached the Grinnell Glacier Overlook—a breathtaking sight.
Heading back, we made good time but still wanted to be in our cars by sunset. When we reached the 800-foot waterfall we had climbed earlier, we decided it would make more sense to stay on the main trail until we reached a trailhead from which we could walk back. This added three miles to our hike, leading to our third animal encounter. We spotted another bighorn sheep on our narrow track, which went straight up and down the mountain, leaving no room to go around it. We followed the sheep for a little while, eventually adding more hikers to our group and electing Pete to lead. He would stop and start at will, and we were at his mercy.
Eventually, we came across a tree where the sheep stopped to eat, glancing back to ensure Pete wasn’t going to steal its food. After a brief snack and some contemplation, it effortlessly jumped to a rock outcropping nine feet above the trail. We waited a moment to make sure it wasn’t going to leap again, then quickly walked beneath it to finish the trail. The trailhead was at the Logan Pass Visitor Center, where we reloaded on water and took advantage of the restroom facilities. Our next challenge was to get back to our cars, which were miles away. Thankfully, a driver with a truck and an empty bed was willing to give us a ride down. Back at the car, we exited Glacier, and after a stop at the Glacier Distillery in Corum, we found our next Airbnb and settled down for the night.
Pete and Sam planned to stay for a few more days, but I had to head home. We left Kalispell and drove to Kootenai Falls Park, where the final scene of The Revenant was filmed. Next to a rail line and across a massive swinging bridge, there was an impressive set of falls with an immense amount of water rushing through. We explored the rocky beach, dipped our feet in the water, and then hiked up to the main falls for more climbing.
Then it was time to part ways. I faced a long drive back into Canada, complete with more Border Patrol checks, traffic, and a series of abandoned mining towns, before finally checking into a hotel at the airport for my flight home the next day.